Time to have some Monsoon Greens

Leaves of Shirmundli, a creeper usually found in forest areas

It is that time of the year again when Goans are forced to look beyond fish and explore the world of green leafy vegetables, which are in abundance in one’s backyards, forests, and even roadsides. It is the monsoon time and so the best time to have some greens on your plate!

There’s a common saying among Goans that you have to at least taste these vegetables during this season. After all, it promotes the concept of eating seasonal and local food, which is now one of the mantras to live a healthy life.
So, our forefathers understood that these monsoon months (June to September) are not the best time to venture into the sea for fish and opted for the option of indulging in some veggies. These vegetables are rich in antioxidants, zinc and fiber. They are now easily available in the local market and are mainly sold by local vendors.

Local vendors sell various local vegetables at this time of the year. Seen here are some bamboo shoots and seasonal greens.

But, the real fun is finding these veggies in one’s backyard and green covers. I discovered most of these vegetables in the village of Canacona in South Goa. I had no idea that the tender pseudostem of a wild banana plant is a seasonal delicacy.

I am sure most of us have heard of elephant foot yam which is locally known as suran.  There’s wild variety of suran known as luti. However, its tuber is not edible and one has to be careful while harvesting luti leaves as it has to be eaten when it is in bud form. Similar is the case with tero (Colocasia esculenta), which resembles like colocasia leaves or locally known as alu. It is a wild variety and only its tender leaves are edible. Also, tender stem of air potatoes locally known as karande is also eaten in its raw form. And these are just a handful that I am aware of. I am sure there are many such tubers in our vicinity.

Elephant foot yams can grow really tall as seen in this image.

Tender leaves of Luti or Wild Elephant foot yam which are edible and not the mature leaves or the plant

Monsoon is also a good time to discover a variety of alu or colocasia leaves which are found in the Western Ghats. I found out at least five types of tubers, which are edible. The delicacy aluchi vadi is made from these leaves of alu. Various types of alu are–tirpatche alu, vatalu (it grows on branches of tall trees, tero, and others are eaten at this time of the year. One can relish them during Ganesh Chaturthi–Goa’s biggest festival, which is held in the month of August-September.

During monsoon these plants come to life. Clockwise: Kasal leaves (Alocasia calidora) whose corm or tuber is eaten soon after monsoon; Tirpatche alu; Leaves of air potato and leaves of tero, which grows really wild during monsoon

Speaking about festivals, there are few festivals in Goa which are incomplete without mention of haldi or turmeric leaves. These leaves come to life at this time of the year and are widely used to make a delicacy known as patoli (a sweet made of jaggery and coconut applied on a rice paste, which is then covered with a turmeric leaf). They are made during Nagpanchami and also the Our Lady of Assumption feast which is celebrated on August 15, every year. It is also commonly known as ‘Pattoleanchem Fest.’

The common green vegetables are taikilo (round shape leaves) which are easily found on the roadside. Also, there’s another species of taikilo called kilkulo (oblong leaves) and are not edible. Also, the tender leaves of drumstick (which now considered as a super food) known as kisra are also widely eaten.
One thing that really interests me is their unusual names. They almost sound exotic like kuddukechi bhaji, chanyecho detho, tikichi bhaji, fagla (it is a fruit which looks like bitter gourd), kille (tender bamboo shoots).
Among these one name that really fascinates me is the name, Shirmundli. It is a wild creeper. Its tender leaves are edible like most of these veggies.

There is another delicacy which is actually an extract of the wild banana plant. Locally called ghabo, it is the central tender stem of the wild banana tree found in forest areas. It is harvested at a specific time—budding of the banana flower. It is at this stage the tree is cut and the central tender stem is extracted. It all depends on the timing if harvested a bit early or late it is not considered edible. It is added to the local vegetarian delicacy, Khatkhate. It also includes kille as this is also a seasonal delicacy.

Along with leaves and stems wildflowers are also eaten at this time of the year. The wildflowers known as churchurechi fula are eaten by shallow frying and adding it to chutney. They are called churchurechi fula. As after eating them you really get hungry, as they call it Konkani churchurit. These are the flowers of Indian Pavetta and are also found in Manipur. How fascinating is that?

Churchurechi fula or Indian Pavetta flowers

Most of these vegetables are eaten as soon as monsoon starts and the season concludes when the Hindu holy month of Shravan starts in July-August. When the month of Shravan starts the leaves of these vegetables are not tender and thus non-edible. It also helps in containing over-harvesting as some of these are wild species. One must keep in mind that it requires experience and expertise to identify these vegetables.

clockwise: Taikilo leaves, elephant foot yam leaves, haldi or turmeric leaves and leaves of air potatoe

During the monsoons, paddy fields are also a place to find some wild varieties of vegetables such as golchi bhaji, katle bhaji and the famous akur (Acrostichum aureum). Akur is found in marshy and mangrove areas as it is a mangrove fern and grows wild.

These vegetables are usually cooked with onion, dal and coconut. However, for some vegetables like alu, tero one needs to add hog plums or any other soaring agent. These vegetables have alkaline properties in them which can create irritation while eating them. So, soaring agents help kill that irritation. The souring agent can be kokum or hog plums.

Monsoon is also a good time to hone your gardening skills. At this time of the year one can start growing types of gourds, pumpkins, tambdi bhaji, haldi (turmeric), taikilo and dhavi bhaji.
The best part about these vegetables like taikilo, dhavi bhaji is that they will sprout out everywhere and require low maintenance.
So, this monsoon season starts relishing these green veggies and if you are keen can also grow some. So, either you eat or grow—both will be an enriching experience, one for the body and another for the soul.